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Efcubed Photography bio picture

Welcome to the Efcubed Photography Blog!

Roger A. Dallman Jr.    Roger started in photography in 1979, as a secondary job in the Army.  He shot "grip and grins" and Army events.  He began shooting portraits and weddings on the side for extra camera gear money.  He won several photo contests and an Army journalism award.  After career assignment changes, he put the cameras aside and sold his darkroom equipment. In 2006, he bought his first digital camera before a trip to Europe and was hooked again. 

Today he is a dedicated Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop user-advocate and NAPP member.  He is active in photography groups and teaches digital darkroom techniques.  He prefers to shoot portaits away from seamless paper and static lighting.  He is also a photo retoucher and restores old photos - a handy skill when working on his genealogy hobby.

Mark B. Segal.    Mark started shooting when he was 13 and has done it off and on since then.  As a Navy brat and then Naval Officer, I got to go to interesting places.  I wish I had taken my camera more often.  I love the way the camera allows you to dissect the world and shape what people see of it.  Photoshop and Lightroom are great tools to help capture what you thought you saw from behind the lens. 

I love helping people salvage and restore their photographic memories as links to their past.  The patience and dedication needed are usually far beyond what the images are worth, except to the person who owns the picture.  Seeing the smile or tears from when you've brought back an image from the cracked, torn and faded pile is a reward in and of itself. 

Snow Shots

If you turn on the news this weekend, you’ll hear about our major-snowstorm-of-DOOM, here in the northern Virginia area.  I think it’s all a major SNOWver-reaction.  ;-)   OK, enough with the bad jokes…  Shooting photographs of snow requires a few adjustments to your camera and technique.  Proper preparation will yield better results.

The main concern is light.  There is an over-abundance of light. It’s bouncing around the pretty little snowflakes and can fool the meter in your camera.  If you’re a point-and-shooter, see if you have a snow setting on your menu; they adjust the light and usually change the white balance.  DSLRs don’t have such settings, so you want to prepare before you head out.  You need to overexpose by .5 to 1.5 stops to get things right.  Once you set your exposure compensation to positive EVs, you should check the LCD to ensure you have things where you want them.  You can make further refinements in Lightroom, Aperture, or whatever you use for post-processing, but getting it right in the camera is always the best option.

As always, feel free to break rules that don’t fit the situation.  Let the highlights blow out if you feel it adds to your picture.  Here, I wanted to maximize the bright (obnoxiously bright) pink hat on Granddaughter2, so I let the light pour in.  You can see the yellow, reflecting from her hood, changing the pink to orangish.  I shot it this way on purpose.  This gives the photo a high key (very bright) effect.

In direct light, your camera may have a tendency to be a little bluish, especially in the shadows.  This is, again, pretty easy to adjust out.  If you’re shooting in RAW, you’ll be able to have the extra flexibility available there, but you can make some adjustments in JPG, as well.  For example, the picture on the left is from my film days.  After I digitized it, I noticed a distinctly blue cast to the photo.  I had to live with it in the film days, but not any more.  I fixed both of these photos in post.

Of course, sometimes the blue belongs.  Glaciers have a great blue color from the density of the ancient, pressure-packed snow.  This is another film image from my time in Alaska, courtesy of the US Army.  I plan another trip there, this summer.  To give you a feeling for the scale, that boat is 85 feet long.

Snow can be a good place to look for abstract shapes and forms.  The snow adds uniformity to the scene and can cover a lot of the distractions normally there.  Set a low shutter speed to catch the snowflakes blurred.

So don’t just sit inside when the snow hits.  Go out and have fun with your camera.  When you come back in, make sure you wipe it down with a soft cloth to remove any moisture.

The final shot is a gratuitous plug for son-in-laws who help out the wife’s old man.   Sure glad they showed up this weekend: they brought the grandkids; and I’m getting too lazy to shovel 30″ of snow.  Thanks!

PS.  If you’re on Facebook, you can become a fan of our blog at http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#!/home.php?filter=pp.  We will soon have a link where you can purchase photos from both of us.  We’ll let you know when we have that in place.

Cameras are Computers–Update your firmware

Howdy Folks,

Roger has been carrying the load for this blog for the last few months, as I have been reminded on a near daily basis.  Unfortunately, I have been off writing big proposals to try and get new business, thereby allowing me to continue my photography addiction.  Finally, I’ve caught a brief break and have recommenced my housekeeping chores including taking care of my camera. 

I often forget that the brains behind my camera is only partly me—yes Roger, a very small part, I’ll save you the trouble.  There is a lot of embedded software, called “firmware”  inside your cameras and the manufacturers are continually looking at how they can improve the operations of their systems.

We are all used to getting the updates for whatever image editing programs we are using, be it Photoshop Elements, or Adobe Lightroom.  You have to work a slight bit harder to update the firmware, but it is definitely an important part of being properly prepared as a photographer. 

For Nikon owners, you can go to  http://nikoneurope-en.custhelp.com/app/answers/list and select your camera model and computer operating system and follow the directions.   Nikon software has an A and a B side and you need to do both.   It involves using a blank memory card and your card reader to download the upgrades and they have step by step instructions on how to do it. 

For those CANON shooters head over to http://www.usa.canon.com/dlc/controller?act=GetProductLineAct&productLineID=3 and dig around under your camera model. 

For me, here are just a few of the updates in the new software load

The following improvements have been made in version 1.10

- The Highlights playback display option has been moved from Display mode > Basic photo info > Highlights in the playback menu to Display mode > Detailed photo info > Highlights. 
- The size and color of “Demo” displayed in the monitor with playback when No memory card? in the Custom Settings is set to Enable release, have been modified. 
- The range of settings available for ISO sensitivity settings > ISO sensitivity auto control > Minimum shutter speed in the shooting menu has been increased from 1/250 – 1 s to 1/4000 – 1 s.
- When shooting in hand-held live view mode and the frame is magnified prior to autofocusing, operation has been modified so that display returns to the magnified display rather than full-frame display. 
- Images captured with Rotate tall, in the playback menu, set to On are not automatically rotated for display immediately after capture (image review).
- A Copyright information item has been added to the setup menu.  When Copyright information is enabled, the copyright symbol (©) is shown in the shooting info display. 

It also improves the display of GPS data, which is a topic that Roger can and does go on forever about. 

So, go check your manufacturers website and make sure the smart part of your camera is up to speed so you, the creative part can get the most out of your partnership.

Down to the River to Play…. (In Kayaks and Canoes)

My father-in-law died, unexpectedly, in January 2009.  He and I shared interests in photography, genealogy, and investing.  Throughout his life, he enjoyed outdoor activities, like camping and hiking.  For many years, he would spend time on various rivers and rapids in his canoe, usually with some of his kids and grandkids.  Our DaughterNumberTwo was a very frequent paddling companion.  One of his favorite places to go was the Nantahala River, near Bryson City, N.C.  After a few years, many of the family would rent a house close to the river and spend the week paddling, playing cards, eating tons of food, and, occasionally, visiting the casino in nearby Cherokee.  We always had a good time.  The picture below is Johnnie, at age 80, going through the waterfall (upright) at the end of the run.

Let’s talk about taking these kinds of images and getting something you’ll be happy with.   The key is planning because this photography exercise is challenging.  You’ve got fast moving subjects that are too busy trying not to drown to pose in the exact spot you want.  The lighting is bad, with bright highlights and deep shadows that will cause havoc with your exposure meter.  The best locations are down near the water, and it’s a wet, slippery place to be playing with expensive camera gear.  Sounds like fun, huh?  Well, it sure beats joining those loons in the plastic boats!

The easiest way to get sharp photos in this environment is to maximize your shutter speed.  Generally, this is 1/500th of a second or faster.  This shouldn’t be too difficult in the bright daylight.  If there are clouds or the shade is too deep where you want to shoot, you’ll need to bump up the ISO as high as you can without getting noisy images.  You do know where that is on your camera, right?  If not, take some practice shots prior to your arrival, steadily increasing the ISO until you see visible noise (random pixels of color and light) in your image.  Keep your ISO setting lower than your noise limit.  Since every camera has different low light capabilities, I can’t give you an exact number.  Your aperture setting depends on how much depth of field you want in your image.  I usually keep this setting in the mid-range.  You can open this up to get faster shutter speeds.  Your camera is ready.

The lighting problems can be extreme.  Trees line the banks, creating deep shade, in contrast to the bright sun bouncing light from the water, rocks, and bright kayaks.  There is dappled light coming through the leaves on the trees.  If you put your camera into a mode that allows automatic exposure settings (Program, Automatic, Shutter Priority, Aperture Priority), your camera’s meter will constantly change, making adjustments as you follow the kayaker through the course.  Many of these shots will be hopelessly flawed. I’ve found that shooting several test shots and varying my settings, allows me to find the best solution.  Then, I set those into my camera and leave it in Manual mode.

Location is always important.  Most rivers have several good locations to get the kind of shot you want.  You can get up high for look down at the river, like the shot on the left.  Move a little closer to the river to create an image that makes your viewer think “What a pleasant way to spend the day.”

To create the most exciting shots that convey the triumph, apprehension, and sheer looniness of this sport, you need to get down to the water.  Fill the frame with your subject.  Get the water behind them to show its menacing turbulence. A low shot makes the water look like a wall.  There were many times when my Wife, DaughterNumberTwo, and DaughterInLaw made it through the chute alive and upright.  Whew!

Shoot continuously to catch all the action.  Things are moving quickly, and you want to catch them at just the right moment.  (Dude, there are huge rocks under there!)

I loved those weeks down there with the family.  Lots of fun with my camera.  I even went down the river myself.  How’d I do?  Well….

Quick Note

Just a quick couple of notes for today.  Mark is out in California, with Sheldon, looking for a limited edition Green Lantern lantern, so I’ll be doing this one. ;-)

In March (23-26), it’s time, once again, to wander down to Orlando for Photoshop World – an entire week of photography and post-processing fun.  There are two conventions every year.  The east coast is in the spring and usually rotates between Orlando and Boston.  The west coast version happens in the fall in Las Vegas.  The exhibition floor will be packed with great deals and new products.  The classrooms will be filled with lots of photography-related education.  There are several must-attend parties and discussions that occur throughout the week.  Yup, a regular photo-geek fest.  Here’s the link, so you can register now.

On the 23rd, we will be spending the day in a pre-con session with Joe McNally and Moose Peterson.  We’ve raved about Joe before.  He is an incredible photographer.  Moose is an extremely talented wildlife and landscape photographer.  This will be the highlight of the week for me.  Hope to see you in Orlando.

On a personal note, the post office delivered several of copies of The Guardian, newsletter for St. Mary’s Home for Disabled Children.  In October, I photographed their annual fund-raiser fun run in Virginia Beach and wrote a blog about it.  They used two of the pictures in their newsletter and gave me the photo credit for the pictures.  It’s always nice to start the year with a new photo credit.  You can support them by sending a donation here.  It only takes a few minutes to help them with their work.  If you haven’t given to a deserving community group yet, this is a good one to recognize.  I hope you can give them a hand.  We’ve been talking about how to start the new year off properly, and this is just another good idea.

Here is one of the pictures from the run.

Pare Your Files

At the beginning of the new year,  another task to complete is the review and deletion of unnecessary images.  Those of you who never delete any images will probably want to leave the room…this is not for you.  These images take up room on my hard drive.  Yes, I know storage is cheap these days, but will I ever use some of these things? Probably not.

I’m a big believer in shooting many images.  A facial expression can change in a millisecond, and I want to catch just the right expression.  There are images to the right, left and behind the one that first catches your eye, and I want to get everything I can from a scene.  I often bracket (taking multiple exposures with different shutter speed settings while maintaining the aperture and framing) a landscape to get the light at its best in all parts of the image.  Back in the old days, I bought film in 100 foot rolls and loaded my own film cassettes to keep the costs of film low enough to shoot without worry.  I am a fairly strict editor when I import my images, but, since I like to play in Photoshop, sometimes I’ll keep images for composites or for teaching purposes.  All of this causes the image count to go up at a fast pace.  And I have tens of thousands of images in my Lightroom databases.

Get your wastebasket ready – we’re going into the files, brandishing the DELETE button!

If you are organized with Adobe Lightroom, Apple’s Aperture, or some other visual program, this is a much easier job.  If you have to go into folders all over your hard drive, using something like the Microsoft Picture Viewer, you have my sympathy.  The rules of engagement are your own making.  I’m most receptive in the morning, so this is a morning job.

I move client work to their own database and rarely delete those.  You never know when somebody will call back and ask about a specific photo that was never used, but now is of interest to them.

Anything that was taken as a snapshot is directly in harm’s way.  For example, during the Aruba photowalk, I took this shot of souvenir geckos for sale.  Why?  I have no idea.  Delete it!  At the last Washington Nationals ballgame, I shot hundreds of images, including Josh Wilmingham hitting another foul.  The Nats lost; Sports Illustrated is not going to call me; and I’m not really a big fan. Delete!   Speaking of sports, 20 shots of Jimmie Johnson doing a burnout really aren’t required, especially since I’m a Tony Stewart fan.  Keep a couple good ones, and delete the others.

I love to go on photowalks, but I always need to pare down those images.  I usually shoot a couple hundred photos on each walk.  Don’t need all these pepper shots from Alexandria.  Or all these flower shots from an old blog.  Must have been a cold, lonely day at the marina in Elizabeth City when I shot 16 different angles of this bench.  If I’d gone to Psych 101 in college, I might understand why I felt the need to shoot it.

You get the idea here.  You need to clear out some of your images that just didn’t work out.  If you take a little time to review the images as you delete them, you can evaluate why they didn’t work.  Compare them with the ones that did work that day and store that tidbit of knowledge away for the next time you do something similar.

Sometimes, while you’re reviewing images you find a few you’d forgotten.  Always be on the lookout for an image you can use with others.  I shot this last image with a specific purpose in mind.  I remember over-exposing the sky to make it easier to use in a composite.  Now where is that shot of the grandkids in the woods? ;-)

Please Release Me

There are many issues in photography where a one-size-fits-all answer doesn’t…well…fit.  This category of issues falls lower in the hierarchy of importance than the Nikon/Canon and “is retouching images ethical” debates, but they’re still important. Being a highly opinionated person, I find these discussions almost impossible to resist, so here goes another one….

The issue today is model releases.  Do you need them?  My answer is “yes;” yours may be different.  My opinion is you should try to get a model release whenever you can.  Feel free to disregard my opinion since I’m not an attorney – although I have some great lawyer jokes.

This is a pretty complex issue, and there are lots of variations of laws from state to state and country to country.  Pro photographers will give different answers.  They love to indulge in philosophic discussions that begin with the age-old phrase of “What if…”  I’m not going down that road, since I can’t give any kind of legal advice (have I repeated that enough to be perfectly clear?).  Besides, this blog is a just to make you think about the issue.  Let’s just keep it simple.

The key ingredient in your decision is probably how you envision the picture will be used, but do you really know what you’re going to do with the image?  These are old pictures I took in the ’80s.  At that time, no one imagined the digital distribution systems of today or photo websites or blogs.  Al Gore hadn’t even invented the internet back then.  Yet, because I obtained a model release from my clients, I can still use these photos.

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I’ve been a people photographer since I started taking pictures, back in the late ’70s, and I’ve always used model releases.  I’ve never had any trouble getting them from my wedding and portrait clients.  I also ask people when I’m out and about, shooting for myself.  I use this as an opportunity to pass out a business card and offer them some prints for their cooperation. If you scan the release and put them into your Adobe Lightroom database, you can always find the release.  I go an extra step and keyword relevant images with “Model Release.”

Yes, I even get releases from family members and friends if I really think an image has the potential to be used in my advertising or maybe a sale to a stock photo agency.  People who know me are used to me asking.  Some of already seen their pictures used in my work.  Since they usually feel free to ask me for a copy of the photos, I just trade it for a release.  If nothing comes of it, I’ve wasted a tiny amount of space in my databases storing the release.  Remember what your grandmother told you, “Do what is right, even when no one is looking.”

Last year, we attended a seminar with Ed Greenberg, a lawyer who specializes photography and copyright cases, and he was adamant that photographers should always get a model release.  I guess you might expect that, but he had some pretty compelling cases to illustrate his reasoning.  Another good resource for legal information is Carolyn Wright’s blog, Photo Attorney.

In the end, you’ll make your own decision.  Count me as a photographer who loves to take portraits of people and is smart enough to get the release.

New Year Fixes

The new year is here.  I hope one of your resolutions was to go out and take better photographs – and lots of them.  Here are a few easy things you can do to make that resolution come to fruition.

Let’s start with your camera:

Have you checked your batteries lately?  I have an old film camera that can still make an image without a battery (Canon F-1), but I’m betting yours needs a battery or two to work.  While you’re checking it, don’t forget to put some extra batteries in your camera case.  If you use an SLR, you’ll need special manufacturer’s batteries.  Take some of your holiday cash and buy an extra one and keep it charged and in your bag.

Now check the date in your camera menu.  I do side work with friends’ photos, and it always bothers me when I see incorrect dates in the metadata.  Most people never check this, so they bring me a photo they made last week, and the date says it was in 2004.  And turn off the option that puts the date right on your final image.  You can always get the date from the photo’s metadata (and now it will be correct because you just did that), and the stamp detracts from your fine art.

Get some lens paper and clean your lens.  Ditto for the LCD viewer on the back.

Don’t neglect your software.  Have you updated it recently?  I use Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop, and they issue updates regularly with minor bug fixes and Camera Raw profiles for the new cameras that seem to come out monthly.  The presets inside include your copyright date, and it should now read “2010.”

Don’t forget you.  This is a good time to learn more about your camera and photography.  We did a blog about free resources in August, linked here.  And, of course, Mark and I would really appreciate you coming here often.

Read a new photography book or twenty.

Check iTunes for free photography podcasts; they have more than you can listen to.

Join the NAPP (it’s open to all folks – pro, amateur, or snapshooter).  You’ll easily recoup the cost in savings from special deals they broker.  They produce lots of free training there.  If you want to get a little more serious, spend a few bucks for a year’s worth of training at Kelbytraining.com.  It costs $199 per year ($179 for NAPP members) and has very detailed training on a wide variety of photography and photography processing techniques and software.  The instructors are well-known photographers and trainers.

My first photos, this year, were snapshots of my beautiful, little granddaughters destroying the bathtub with their bath foam.  It was chaos in our house for the entire holiday season. I am a firm believer that a chaotic home is a happy home.  They’re great shots, but their mother and grandmother would shoot me for posting those.

You have to have at least one photo in a photoblog, so I’m throwing in my favorite castle, Neu Schwanstein.  We lived only 80 miles from King Ludwig’s castle for six years, and every visitor we had wanted to go there.  I’ve been 20 times, in all seasons.  This is from inside his living room, just before his grotto, looking out at the castle entrance.  The date will tell you it was shot on film, and the look of it should tell  you that it’s been post-processed in Photoshop.

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Have a fun New Year!

Happy New Year!

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From my house to yours, I wish you a Happy New Year.

Well….OK…That really isn’t my house….  This is from one of my visits to England.  But I still wish you the best for the new year.

We hope you will stay with the blog for 2010.

HNY